Lisbon: Europe's Most Underrated Capital (For Now)

I had Lisbon recommended to me so many times I almost ignored it. Don't make my mistake. This city is extraordinary — still genuinely affordable, extraordinarily beautiful, and blessed with food and wine culture that can go head to head with anywhere in the world.

Arriving in Alfama

Stay in Alfama if you can. It's the oldest district, cascading down a hillside to the river, all terracotta rooftops and the sound of fado drifting from open windows at night. I paid €65/night for a small apartment with a Tagus River view. In Paris that's a hostel bed.

The Pastéis de Nata Question

Yes, you must go to Pastéis de Belém — it's the original, it's institutional, the queue moves fast, and one pastel de nata warm from the oven with a dusting of cinnamon and powdered sugar is genuinely one of the world's great food experiences. Eat it there. Do not take it away. The ones at every other café are also excellent and you don't have to queue.

Bairro Alto at Night

The nightlife is effortless and cheap. Bottle of wine at a corner store: €3. Glass of ginjinha (sour cherry liqueur) in a tiny shop in Rossio: €1.50. The whole city seems to congregate outside after midnight. Nobody is trying hard. It's just people enjoying the night.

Day Trip: Sintra

Take the 40-minute train from Rossio station. Sintra is a fairy-tale: palaces built into cliff faces, fog rolling through pine forests, ceramic tiles everywhere. Arrive early (8am) to beat the crowds. The Palácio da Pena is the unmissable one.