First Time in Marrakech: Survive and Thrive in the Medina

Marrakech will overwhelm your senses completely within 30 minutes of arrival and you will love it unconditionally by the end of day two. Here is how to navigate it.

The Medina

The old city — the medina — is a labyrinth of narrow souks organized (loosely) by trade. Spice souk, leather souk, carpet souk, lantern souk. Getting lost is the point. Put your phone away and follow your nose. The smell of tanned leather from the famous Chouara tanneries hits you from two streets away — follow it.

Jemaa el-Fna

The central square transforms completely from morning to evening. Morning: fruit juice vendors and snake charmers. Night: an enormous outdoor restaurant appears from nowhere, smoke rising from dozens of grills, musicians and storytellers performing. Eat here once for the experience — Point 14 or 32 are solid — but the real food is in the side streets.

Riads

Stay in a riad — a traditional house built around a courtyard. Even budget riads are beautiful. Mine had a rooftop terrace, breakfast included, for €45/night. Waking up to mint tea served by hand is a legitimately good way to start a day.

A Warning About the Souks

You will be followed and hassled in the souks. It's part of the experience; it's not personal. A firm 'La shukran' (No thank you in Arabic) and walking with purpose works. If you stop, you're browsing. Don't make eye contact with goods you don't intend to buy. Prices start at 3-4x the fair value — negotiate from 25% of asking.