Istanbul: Living Between Two Continents for 10 Days

Istanbul is the only city in the world that sits on two continents, and you feel this duality everywhere: in the call to prayer echoing through European streets, in Byzantine mosaics inside a building that has been a church, then a mosque, then a museum, then a mosque again. There is nowhere else like it.

The Grand Bazaar Isn't a Trap (Mostly)

The Grand Bazaar is the world's oldest shopping mall — 4,000 shops, built in 1461. Yes it's touristy. Yes the prices are inflated. But walking those covered alleys, past lanterns and spice mountains and men shouting in six languages, is an experience you can't replicate. Go, negotiate firmly, and leave when you've had enough.

Cross the Bosphorus

Take the public ferry from Karaköy to Üsküdar on the Asian side. It costs ₺15 ($0.50). You can say you have been to Asia and back before lunch. Üsküdar has a gorgeous waterfront, good food, and almost no tourists. Take the ferry back at sunset and watch the minarets turn gold.

Eat Everything

Breakfast is a production in Turkey: olives, cheeses, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggs, bread, honey, clotted cream, tea. The Van Kahvaltı Evi in Beyoğlu does a legendary one. For dinner, find a meyhane in Beyoğlu or Karaköy for mezes and rakı. For a quick meal: a simit (sesame bread ring) from a street cart for ₺5 will get you through the morning.