Accra: West Africa's Most Welcoming City

Ghana calls itself "the Gateway to Africa" and Accra proves it within an hour of landing. The immigration officer smiled and said "You are welcome" — and she meant it. Everyone in this city means it. I have never felt more immediately at ease in a place I'd never been.

Jamestown

The oldest part of Accra is a crumbling, vibrant, extraordinary neighbourhood on the coast. Colonial-era buildings in various states of beautiful decay, fishing boats painted in bright colours pulled up on the beach, and a community that has lived here for centuries. Climb the Jamestown Lighthouse for panoramic views of old Accra and the harbour below. Kids will offer to guide you — a few cedis for their trouble is fair.

The Food

Ghanaian food is underrated globally and outstanding locally. Jollof rice is a matter of national pride — order it everywhere and form your own opinion on the great Ghana-vs-Nigeria debate. Banku with tilapia and pepper sauce at a chop bar is a revelation. Kelewele (spiced fried plantain) from a street vendor costs 5 cedis ($0.40). For breakfast, waakye (rice and beans with spaghetti, shito sauce, and boiled egg) from a roadside stall is the most filling meal you'll eat for under $1.

Art and Culture

Accra's art scene is booming. The Artists Alliance Gallery in the La neighbourhood showcases Ghanaian contemporary art. Gallery 1957 in Kempinski hotel is world-class. But the real gallery is the city itself — the fantasy coffin workshops in Teshie, where artisans carve coffins shaped like Mercedes, eagles, and cocoa pods, are one of the most extraordinary things I've ever seen.

Labadi Beach

Accra's most popular beach gets packed on weekends — live music, horseback rides on the sand, vendors selling grilled fish and coconuts. It's not pristine white sand; it's better. It's a party, a gathering, a Saturday afternoon institution. Entry is 5 cedis. Bring your own drinks.